The Big Squeeze


For eight years, chef Chris Golder traveled the oceans, preparing meals on some of the world’s most luxurious yachts.

Now the Maryland native has dropped anchor at Tark’s Grill at Green Spring Station in Lutherville, where happy customers enjoy the restaurant’s signature steaks, braised ribs and chicken potpie.

Golder prefers to let well-prepared entrees speak for themselves. He’s always happy when diners notice that as much care goes into the side dishes as into the center of the plate. He respects the classics, like his lemon meringue tart.

“If you think about it, I don’t know anybody who would turn away a really good apple pie — or a blueberry pie or a cobbler,” says Golder.

Tark’s chef de cuisine Evan Lavin is a Maryland native who did some traveling and worked in California before heading home. He stresses the basics, saying once you master a few techniques, you can take it from there.

“You cook properly, and then you use your own ideas,” he says.

Golder agrees. Once you’ve got the basics, he says, “it all comes together.”

Tips & Tricks

  • The recipe for the crust makes enough for two tarts. Freeze the extra ball of dough for later use.
  • The tart can be made with butter or margarine.
  • Use any meringue to make mousse: Fold meringue into whipped cream and melted chocolate.
  • Don’t like beets in the risotto? Substitute carrots.

Lemon Meringue Tart

Lemon Filling

Seared Salmon With Beet And Citrus Risotto And Mustard Greens

Amy Landsman is a freelance writer in Lutherville.

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