Working 15-hour days, six days a week for decades still doesn’t faze Mikhail Trakhtman.
The longtime owner of Sunfresh Produce Market in Pikesville prides himself on offering a unique variety of locally grown produce and international delicacies like Russian caviar.
In September, the market will celebrate its 18th year in business. But the road to success for this native of Ukraine has never been easy.
Trakhtman and his wife, Zima, who were living in Russia decades ago, say their economic opportunities were stifled, primarily because of antisemitism. After much soul searching, they made a courageous decision to leave their troubled homeland.
With aging parents, two young children and knowing very little English, the Trakhtmans arrived in Baltimore in 1991.
“We were thinking about a better life for us and a better life for our kids. It’s our American dream, of course,” said Mikhail Trakhtman. “We have a house, we have cars. My three children have graduated from college. If we were still in Russia, I’m sure we would not have any of that.”
“We were scared at first but happy to leave [Russia],” said Zima Trahktman. “We didn’t know what would be here, but thank God, every time, we say God bless America.”
While in Russia, she aspired to become a doctor. After studying pre-med in college, she applied to a medical school. But Zima Trakhtman says when the administrator examined her Russian passport, which listed her nationality as Jewish, the woman shook her head and told her, “Are you sure you want to go through that, because I can tell you don’t have a chance.”
Zima Trakhtman said she was not permitted to take off work for the Jewish holidays.
“We couldn’t celebrate Jewish holidays publicly, only Russian holidays.” She also found it difficult to find matzah during Passover. “We lived in a small town, and we didn’t have any synagogue.” She said her father had to travel many miles to a larger city to purchase matzah.
As for Mikail Trakhtman, his first job in the U.S. was as a commercial truck driver. But he said his lifelong goal was to operate his own business. With financial backing from family and friends, Trakhtman purchased a small produce store in Reisterstown.
A few years later, the couple embarked on a major venture by opening Everfresh International Market in Reisterstown. The supermarket featured a butcher shop and deli.
A few years later, the couple conceded it was difficult competing with the larger supermarket chains, so they decided to downsize to concentrate on selling locally grown produce.
Zima Trakhtman said their market is already starting to feel the impact of higher tariffs imposed by the U.S. on many foreign countries.
As a result, she admits Sunfresh had no choice but to slightly increase prices on some products like cookies, jams, pasta and grain imported from Ukraine, Poland, Romania, Spain, Italy, Bulgaria and Germany.
But she added that the variety of international products keeps their customers coming back. The owners said that selling locally grown produce is often less expensive than at nearby supermarkets.
Trakhtman said one day, he and his wife would like to return to Ukraine and Russia to visit friends and relatives they haven’t seen in decades. But given the lingering war, he said it would be far too dangerous.
Both said they are horrified by the devastation and staggering loss of innocent lives. “I can’t believe it. It’s heartbreaking,” Mikail Trakhtman said. “It’s like brother against brother.”
“You can’t say who are the Ukrainians, who are the Russians, they’re mixed together. I don’t even understand how they even fight, they’re killing each other,” Zima Trakhtman said.
Mikail Trakhtman, who is 66, said the idea of retiring has never crossed his mind. After working six days a week, he often spends his one day off doing paperwork and planning for the next week. “I’m not thinking about a change, so seven days … stay home? No, no, it’s not for me!”
As the High Holidays approach, the couple is counting their blessings as American citizens and the freedom to celebrate Judaism. Despite their hectic workweek, the family gathers on Friday evenings for Shabbat.
In addition to their three children, the Trakhtmans have three grandchildren and recently held a baby naming ceremony, zeved habat, for their new granddaughter at Congregation ARIEL/Chabad Center on Stevenson Road.
“If we never came here [U.S.], we would not be able to celebrate Jewish holidays. Here, I can enjoy the Jewish traditions,” Mikail Trakhtman said.
John Rydell is a freelance writer.
